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Diary

Givenchy Haute Couture Spring 2012

Givenchy Haute Couture Spring 2012 presentation. Paris © evelinakhromtchenko.com

Givenchy Haute Couture Spring 2012 presentation. Paris © evelinakhromtchenko.com

Riccardo Tisci usually shows his couture collections for Givenchy here, in the Hotel D’evreux. It is a wonderful place to present actually precious dresses, which are made by hand. Things that happened here, in the Hotel D’evreux at Place Vendome, in the center of Paris, from season to season remind me about Riccardo’s first shows for his own brand in Milan.

Do you know how it is important to make a beautiful invitation? Once I saw a beautiful invitation – you always see what a production budget of it was – and that was a low cost one, so it was clear that it was a young designer. I never heard his name, which made it obvious that this person was a former assistant, who somewhere found investors and became a designer by himself not so long ago.

Riccardo Tisci first show during Milan fashion week so far caught my attention. There was almost no big international press. But this show, full of autumn leaves, which he brought from wood by himself, installations, which reminded Dante’s circles of hell, deeply impressed me. I understood that I didn’t spend my time in vain coming at this unknown designer show.

Next season Riccardo Tisci again decorated the space by himself the best he could with straw and rough furniture to make a base of installation. But this time all the highest fashion high brass attended the show, editors-in-chief from all over the world met at “nowhere” address to see an unknown designer, who would war down the world.

In two seasons Riccardo Tisci was hired by Givenchy, which demonstrates the level of talent of almost unknown designer. And in a season he raised Givenchy on a next level. We cannot say that the basic was gone, couture atelier worked like a clock, but a rock-n-roll spirit, mysticism, Dante’s throes of creation Riccardo Tisci brought can’t be fallen to notice.

Riccardo Tisci makes very liquid pret-a-porter collections, which gives him an opportunity to make once in a season couture miracles. Now we can see this season’s result in the Hotel D’evreux. I think, this result worth the score, that doesn’t exist in school rankings. It is higher that 5, or 10, or even 25.

www.givenchy.com

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Photo: Timur Artamonov for Elle-Russia

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