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Diary

Injections of 90-ies

Saint Laurent fall-winter 2016

Evelina Khromtchenko considers that she sometimes it is so bad that even it becomes good

“A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika. We all need a splash of bad taste — it’s hearty, it’s healthy, it’s physical. I think we could use more of it. No taste is what I’m against”. Life confirms fidelity of Diana Vriland’s initial observation.

Damn it all – once we live! The relation to life of the Russian merchants with their beating of vodka shot glasses, binges, keping women in fabulous diamonds and other basten excesses became stronger in space of modern business of fashion together with return of a trend a la the 1990-ies. Smoke without fire doesn’t happen: there can’t be a street mugger a la Rubchinsky without crimson jacket a la Domenico and Stephano. And already the most underfed minimalist Edie Sliman says goodbye to YSL house with amazing collection of dresses which would constitute happiness of all bad girls of the 90-ies. This style is well familiar to us, dollar hookers (known as “interdevochkas”)who hit a jackpot dressed up this way in the 1990-ies. I will timidly determine this trend as eehh… neo-baroque. It is so bad that it is even good.

Only lazy fashion journalists didn’t write about neo-grunge of Gvasaliya and Rubchinsky’s neo-street muggers. I want to focus attention on neo as the indicative direction of fashion for the 90-ies.

Little black dresses lovers got super brave and agreed to the most unimaginable pictures which were embroidered by Dominico and Stephano. And they pay huge amounts for the decorated cats similar to those Vitsin sold in the market in immortal cinema of Gaidai. “Come, don’t stint!” But the prices, as we know, at Dominico and Stephano are pre-crisis, like “you know, round the corner is more expensive” – actually, thats’s the main reason of the context of images on dresses: think who is able to throw out such “piece of money” on one-time-to-wear dress. Diligent Italians are guided by their tastes. And in this case all images are made in Dolce&Gabbana studio. The name of Domenico and Stephano was too hard to get in order to let in the two-unity artists from outside.

Alessandro Michele modestly began with vintage geometry and attractive shades in a mix and then went racing and embroidered all Gucci products from top to bottom with not only aristocratical bees and intelligent vipers, but also with coarse tigers, parrots, florets and words. Recently Gucci started service of the customization Dionysus handbags with embroidery.

And for winter 2017 he cooperated with the New York graffiti artist Trouble Andrew (in the world William Trevor Andrew), having ornamented Gucci jackets approximately also as before Trevor had painted all walls of Big Apple. Gucci umbrella will be sufficient for everyone, even for Tom Ford who was rehabilitated on his creative part of creative heritage of brand.

Yes, the great artist Marc Quinn drew on Lady Dior bags his corporate irises from the Eye History series. But it rose in the considerable fee to the creator which is possible only for Bernard Arnault. It is far cheaper to open young talent and to make it famous. Miuccia Prada is able to do it better than anybody else: having turned Urs Fischer and Francesco Vezzoli in super-stars, this time she found in Instagram Berlin resident Christophe Chemin, originlly French, and made in collaboration with him the most beautiful winter 2017 collection. But it is a visualization for intellectuals. For winter 2017 Moncler brand involved Arturo Sandoval and Sam Borkson from the Miami FriendsWithYou art duet, and kidults stuck sweatshirts and jackets with graphical beings who would look more organically in a new collection of an emodji. The president of Moncler appeals to youthful audience, but he can be making wishes for long: so far the prices of outfits of Moncler brand are that what they are, only vigorous parents of present twenty-year-old will buy all this jolly. They are we, the people who grew up in the 90ies. We have everything for this purpose: nostalgia, and that the most important, money.

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Photo: Timur Artamonov for Elle-Russia

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