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Ania Nebrenchina: biker chic

Designer Ania Nebrenchina wearing fall-winter 2016-2017 jacket. Photo © Sergey Chumikov for evelinakhromtchenko.com

Fashion editors truly know where to find timeless pieces: the best shawls can be found at Hermes boutiques, t-shirts – at Alexander Wang’s and coats at Max Mara’s. Russian designer Ania Nebrenchina chose her own way to the fashion Olymp as she made biker jackets production.

Ania, under the logo of your previous brand “Roi et Moi” tops, skirts, pants, clutch bags, coats and even fur coats were successfully produced for several years. Why after creating a new brand “Ania Nebrenchina” all production is concentrated on the biker jackets only?

Yes, today I propose only jackets to my customers. I could go on creating a full collection, but I live by a code “less is more”. With aging, you realize that you don’t need a lot of clothes because you learn to appreciate the quality of a good cut and fabric, pay attention to details. It’s simple – I grew up. I offer the best I am good at.

Whose leather jackets became the standard? Any images helped to find the ideal proportions and shape?

As none of my family was used to wearing leather jackets, I began to collect them at vintage markets in my young days. Later these jackets became the forefathers of my models. My family wore only bourgeois tennis jackets or bombers, which are generally accepted to appear on the tennis court at week-ends or on the promenade in any French park. I peeked “bad boys” of 90s and was inspired by the heroes of Alain Delon.

Your model line includes four named items: Vanessa, Kate, Johnny and Marlon. Tell us more about them. What story can each of them tell?

Johnny Depp is a personality who inspires many people and I am not an exception. He, as befits a hero of his time, led a hectic life: Kate, Winona, Vanessa …Young, beautiful, talented – they all loved, worked and wore jackets, leather jackets and more. Models received the names of the heroes of these stories. Marlon is another chapter of this story. I tried to convey the personality and style of each hero in the outlines and details.

Who is your ideal client? Is it possible to analyze, for example, by occupation, age and so on? Who orders mainly: men or women?

Customers are very different. I really cannot generalize. Women, of course, are the majority. Interestingly, over the last 2 years the average age of my women customers increased. Now it’s not just young girls, mostly employees of the fashion industry, but also quite respectable ladies: moms and business women. Jacket is everyday need for them; it can add a striking accent to a casual look.

But every man’s jacket has its own story. Someone asks for a pocket same size of a certain cigar brand, and someone needs a very durable and roomy pocket for his wallet. Men set me functional tasks, they need comfort and mobility.

Historically leather jacket is a male attribute and obviously carries a certain character, giving its owner impudence, freedom, and a sort of aggressive way. How do you advise girls to wear leather jackets? And what is your favorite combination?

The first one who dared was Joan of Arc. Proper Jacket is the armor of a modern man – it saves, it is trusted. The life of each of us is a struggle, it is important to channel the energy properly and to fight for the right ideals. If you conduct research “What is freedom?” there will be few similar answers to this question.

My favorite combination is the sun in my hair, blue sky and leather jacket.

Text: Yaroslav Fashchevskiy

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Photo: Timur Artamonov for Elle-Russia

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