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Calibre 101 by Jaeger-LeCoultre
Calibre 101, Jaeger-LeCoultre, bracelet, Cartier, rings with emerald, “coffee” diamond and white diamonds, “Smolenskie brillianti”. Moscow © evelinakhromtchenko.com
Calibre 101, Jaeger-LeCoultre, bracelet, Cartier, rings with emerald, “coffee” diamond and white diamonds, “Smolenskie brillianti”. Moscow © evelinakhromtchenko.com
Jerome Lambert. Hotel Meurice. Paris © evelinakhromtchenko.com
Evelina Khromtchenko and Jerome Lambert at the celebration of Reverso anniversary. Paris © evelinakhromtchenko.com
Having chosen the feminine Calibre 101 by Jaeger-LeCoultre – the smallest watch in the world since 1929 – and not the masculine Reverso, as expected, Evelina Khromtchenko interviewed Jerome Lambert, the President of the old Swiss watch manufacturer, who explained her choice.
E.K.: How the piece can become timeless – and can become a must-have?
J.L.: Let’s begin with timeless, it is easier than a must-have. Something can turn timeless when it touches something very pure, very original in terms of creation, and there is a balance of the bright mechanics idea and aesthetic qualities. If you don’t have the clear, strong idea in the very beginning – if the metal for example is not very good and the idea in not original enough – this design may be copied easily. Maybe this watch is already a copy on something else. So it will not resist the time. Then it is because you have a strong DNA at the beginning that you can resist to throw the time. But this is not enough, your team should be able to pass a new level, make the watch project in new dimension. For the Reverso it has been the capacity to exist for ladies and men – so that this watch could pass the limit between pure elegant men’s watch and elegant ladies’ watch. And finally you need the evolution in the size of small details, because to be timeless the best solution is to be vivid, alive! The fact that the watch is alive makes it go through the time and make it as well having a real chance of living with its time. So respect your DNA, your traditions, and always develop yourself in new dimension – you should adapt yourself constantly – and still to keep the basic forms.
E.K.: And speaking about Reverso… Why ladies try to steel some designs from men? Why don’t they want to stay in this ladies’ circle, inside the forms that were designed especially for us?
J.L.: You know, there are two explanations – one is glamorous and the second is less glamorous. Less glamorous is that today more than 60% of ladies’ watches are bought by men for presents. If a man is familiar with the brand, with the codes – it is easier for the brand to sell him something similar to what he has already seen.
And glamorous version of the answer is connected to the evolution of the civilization.
Compare woman today and 100 years ago, do you see the difference?
Watch used be a just a jewelry, a decoration. But since the time when ladies started to work and began to organize the time by their own, the woman watch is not just jewelry anymore, it is a watch! Woman became stronger… I think that now “feminism” and “femininity” are evolving, the woman watches marker will show us something new, new icons will appear. I feel that the majority of men or manlike is just a because of the weakness of the market, the limitation of supply. Almost nothing happened on the woman watches market during last 5 years. And I thing, ladies’ watches again will be one of the active segments.
For the must-haves… Every brand dreams to have must-have products, but I prefer the concept of the style icons. Must have doesn’t last long, and icons are forever. I’m sure as a professional you understand well the phenomenon of the must – it is something imposed by fashion and some style… To make a must-have, iconic watch, manufacturer should take into consideration economic and social reasons for must-haves. What is the reason for new love to classic and elegance? The thing is that in a time of economic crisis is has became unpopular, senseless to show off your wealth, the splendid exterior was replaced by modest interior and brand had to meet clients’ expectations. This is the first reason. And the second is that creativity, originality is very important, for me must-have is always something new, innovative. Usually iconic thing is a must-have, which has become timeless. Also very today the very important aspect of this market is modernity, the possibly to find something that is really important, what represents its time. And it is also communications: if you will not put your product into a right position, you will soon be “robed”, something similar will appear and you will be passed by someone else.
E.K.: In my opinion Reverso is something that a woman should buy herself. And Calibre 101, especially with diamonds, should be gifted by a man. Do you agree with me?
J.L.: I believe that any gift to a lady is always a good thing!
But surely Reverso is demonstration of her power; woman should make this choice by herself. Plus it is iconic, you can’t make a mistake with it, this watch will seduce you, you don’t need man’s help with it. Reverso is a real affirmation of the style. To buy Reverso means to become a part of a club – to follow the rules, style: there are only woman who built their career there, they are able to make choices and live between people with taste. Every watch is a symbol – if you wear Chanel or Cartier… These are different people and styles. Choosing this watch, you choose by your mind and heart. Yes, Reverso is something that lady chooses herself.
E.K.: Can you understand the inside part of the person just having a glance on the watch?
J.L.: We have to admit that there are some cultural changes. Countries are different; the link to the size of the watch is very linked to the country. In France the tradition of a smaller size is always more present, than in Germany, or Italy… You can wear a large watch in Germany and it doesn’t mean the same thing as wearing a large watch in France. But it shows at least not the internal part or personality, but the relationship that you have about fine watch making. It says whether you know or you don’t, you buy it because your friends have it and you want the same one. It describes the internal part of you dedicated to choosing, and making your style.
Jaeger-LeCoultre in Moscow:
5 Petrovka str. Phone: +7 (495) 730 4491
